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Japan, April 1996

Nara, April 14

Nara was the capital of Japan, the seat of the Emperor, from 714 to 794, which is known as the Nara period. Subsequently the capital was moved to nearby Heian, which later became known as Kyoto. Today Nara is a medium-sized provincial city of 367,000 people.

Buddhism had arrived in Japan a couple of centuries earlier, and Nara became a major center of Buddhist worship; it still has many Buddhist temples and shrines. According to legend, Takemikazuchi – the god of thunder and swords – arrived in Nara riding on a white deer to take the city under his protection, and since then the deer have been regarded as sacred protectors of the city. They roam freely about the city, getting in the way of people and cars and soliciting food from passers-by, to whom vendors sell snacks for that very purpose. I didn’t feed them myself, but I enjoyed having them around.

I visited several Buddhist temples, of which the most prominent was Todai-ji, founded in 738. It contains the world’s largest bronze statue of the Buddha, known as Daibutsu in Japan.

Next to Todai-ji is the Isui-en Garden, which is noted for its use of “borrowed scenery”, meaning that the architects incorporated external elements, specifically the Nandaimon or South Gate of Todai-ji Temple as well as some of the mountains around Nara, when framing the landscape of the garden. It is a vast garden, occupying 13,500 square meters or 145,000 square feet, and is actually a combination of two separate gardens, the smaller dating from the 17th century and the other from 1899. Both were created by wealthy merchants and were bought and combined by a third businessman in 1939. The garden contains large ponds, fed by a nearby river, and a couple of pleasant tea-houses. I found this garden – among many others in Japan – immensely pleasing and soothing. I never cease to be amazed by the Japanese sense of esthetics, and nowhere is it expressed more eloquently than in their gardens.

Another great temple of Nara is Kofuku-ji, located not far from Todai-ji and Isuien Garden. I should emphasize that there are many more wonderful temples and shrines in Nara than these, and I regret that I didn’t have time to explore them all.

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