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Death Valley October 2019

Shoshone, October 27, 2019

For Sunday afternoon, October 27, JoAnn, who had been on the road for weeks or maybe even months or years, wanted to go home, and none of the rest of us wanted to venture into the sand-blown maelstrom on the floor of Death Valley, so we piled into Red Sonja (Sandie’s Subaru Outback) and drove south to Shoshone, a hamlet just east of Death Valley which claims a population of 31, a grocery store, gas station and museum, a wetland in the middle of the desert, and, of all things, a hobbit ghost town.

Our first stop was the Shoshone Wetland, a haven for fish (!) and migratory birds in the middle of a desperately dry and dusty desert.

The wetland is hidden out of sight in an area which is also the site of an RV park and a school; you reach it via an access road which takes off from the side of the highway near the Charles Brown General Store.

This road leads to Shoshone’s RV park, school and wetland.
This is the entrance to the Shoshone Wetland.

As you venture into the wetland, the path widens and is kept cool and shady by overhanging vegetation.

Shady Lane

Reeds, palms, willows and other oasis vegetation populate the desert wetland biosphere.

Reeds, palms, willows and other oasis vegetation populate the desert wetland biosphere.

Eventually you reach a lovely shaded pool, complete with table, a perfect spot for a picnic.

Picnic Area

Jock loved exploring the wetland paths, and being on a leash didn’t cramp his style at all. He just draged us along wherever he wanted to go.

Jock goes exploring.

Growing by the waterside was an old gnarled willow tree, which reminded me of Old Man Willow in the Lord of the Rings, who lurked along the Withywindle in the Old Forest, waiting for unsuspecting hobbits to come by.

Old Man Willow

The Shoshone Wetland is a sanctuary for desert pupfish, of which it claims to have its own species. Here Diana, Sandie and Kelly contemplate a pool full of them.

Diana, Sandie and Kelly check out the desert pupfish.

Pupfish are quite small and not easy to see even in a clear pool. At least they don’t have to worry about fishermen, since they are far too small for people to eat.

How many Shoshone Pupfish can you find in this picture?

Next to the pool was a placard telling us all we needed to know about the Shoshone Pupfish.

All about the Shoshone Pupfish.

On the opposite (south) side of town we found another distinguishing attraction of Shoshone – a series of little dwellings, dug into the side of rocky hills. There were two sets of them, one on either side of a broad wash; the places on the south side, dug into the side of a low mesa-like outcrop, were more numerous – there were five or six of them, while there were only one or two on the north side – it was hard to tell whether there were two separate dwellings or just one with two doors. To me it seemed as if a small tribe of hobbits had somehow made their way to the Mojave Desert, and carved out hobbit-holes here, perhaps later abandoning them (for they were vacant) when the Big People invaded the area.

The north side of the hobbit ghost town, with dwellings of Big People in the background.

In keeping with the hobbit theme, I named the north set Bagshot Row.

Bagshot Row in the Desert

The south side, although it was completely detached from the north, I decided it was one house with two doors, and named it named Bag End.

Desert Bag End – A veritable hobbit mansion, with two doors.

Unfortunately, the desert version of Bag End was rather dilapidated and run-down. I decided that maybe Saruman/Sharkey had lived in it after being expelled from Middle-Earth.

This version of Bag End had seen better days.

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