Spain, Portugal and Morocco, November, 2017

One day in 2017 I was talking to Chuck Mattox on the phone and asked him if he and Elouise were interested in going to Spain. We had talked about this before. Chuck replied that a realtor they knew in Bend, Linda Gardner, had been getting together a group to tour Portugal, Spain and Morocco for November of that year, they had joined it, and there were still openings.

I jumped at the chance. Once when I was nine years old, I had seen a picture of the Alhambra in a book my mother had bought me, and from that moment I had been enthralled by Moorish architecture. The same book captivated me with stories about Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, the medieval Spanish warrior known as El Cid. As an adult the Iberian peninsula had become one of a few places at the top of my bucket list. With Morocco thrown in, it was a no-brainer. I had to go.

The group turned out to be good-sized, twenty-five people or so, enough to fill a bus. That was fine, since we would be traveling mostly by bus. The members of the group were mainly, but not entirely, drawn from Bend and other places in the Pacific Northwest; there were people from various other parts of the USA as well. The tour would be conducted under the aegis of Education First, a Swiss company, dba Go-Ahead Tours.

I’m obliged to say that the arrangements made by EF/Go-Ahead were superb. Hotels were first-class, food was always top-notch, adherence to schedules was punctual, and the attractions visited were invariably well-chosen. And the guides. Above all, the tour leader, Manuel Sueiras, who stayed with us the entire trip, was the best I’ve encountered in all of my travels. In each place we visited we also had local guides, and in Morocco we had a second tour leader, Karim, who shared the duties of chef de voyage with Manuel and did a fantastic job of it. They were all top-notch people and I have great memories of them. I’ve remained in touch with Manuel since the trip and count him among my most treasured friends.

The tour began in Lisbon, Portugal on November 4 and ended in Barcelona, Spain on November 20. We arrived home on the 22nd, in time for the Thanksgiving holiday.

Lisbon, Portugal - 4-5 November, 2017

Lisbon, Portugal – 4-5 November, 2017

Sandie and I flew into Lisbon on the morning of November 4 and were met by a jovial native of ...
Jerónimos Monastery, November 5, 2017

Jerónimos Monastery, November 5, 2017

On the night of 7 July 1497, Vasco da Gama and his crew gathered in a dilapidated church in Belém ...
Sintra - Pena Palace, November 5, 2017

Sintra – Pena Palace, November 5, 2017

Looking back, I can hardly believe we managed to see and do so much in one day - to see ...
Sintra - Inside Pena Palace, November 5, 2017

Sintra – Inside Pena Palace, November 5, 2017

Once we managed to get past the uncongenial guardian of the Triton Gate, Pena Palace revealed a myriad of new ...
Évora, Portugal - November 6, 2017:  The Church of St. Francis and the Chapel of Bones

Évora, Portugal – November 6, 2017: The Church of St. Francis and the Chapel of Bones

Departing Lisbon by bus on the morning of November 6, a short journey of 83 miles (134 km) brought us ...
Évora, Portugal - November 6, 2017:  Traipsing about Town

Évora, Portugal – November 6, 2017: Traipsing about Town

Évora is overall a far more cheerful place than you would guess if all you ever saw of it was ...
Seville, November 7, 2017 - Barrio de Santa Cruz

Seville, November 7, 2017 – Barrio de Santa Cruz

In 1248 CE, the Castilian monarch Ferdinand III completed a key step in the Reconquista of Spain from the Muslims ...
Seville, November 7, 2017:  The Cathedral

Seville, November 7, 2017: The Cathedral

Seville Cathedral is the fourth largest church in the world, after St. Peter's Basilica in Rome, the Cathedral Basilica of ...
Seville, November 7, 2017:  A River Cruise

Seville, November 7, 2017: A River Cruise

From Seville Cathedral, we walked a few blocks to the east bank of the Guadalquivir River. There, near the Torre ...
Seville, November 7, 2017:  The Alcázar

Seville, November 7, 2017: The Alcázar

After completing the cruise on the Guadalquivir during the early afternoon, we were left with some free time to explore ...
Spain, November 8, 2017:  Basilippo Olive Ranch

Spain, November 8, 2017: Basilippo Olive Ranch

Departing from Seville on the morning of November 8, 2017, our tour bus headed for Córdoba on the A-398 highway ...
Córdoba, November 8, 2017:  City of San Rafael

Córdoba, November 8, 2017: City of San Rafael

Córdoba was for a time one of the largest and most populous cities in the world. The time was circa ...
Córdoba, November 8, 2017:  From Mosque to Cathedral

Córdoba, November 8, 2017: From Mosque to Cathedral

The Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba - Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba - formally titled the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Cathedral ...
Córdoba, November 8, 2017:  A Cathedral inside a Mosque

Córdoba, November 8, 2017: A Cathedral inside a Mosque

The Mezquita of Córdoba contains a traditional cruciform cathedral inside a Muslim mosque. How that came to be is a ...
Córdoba, November 8, 2017:  Mihrab, Maqsura and Patio

Córdoba, November 8, 2017: Mihrab, Maqsura and Patio

The mihrab, the holiest place in a Muslim mosque, is ordinarily a semicircular niche in a wall indicating the qibla, ...
Córdoba, November 8, 2017:  The Judería

Córdoba, November 8, 2017: The Judería

Leaving the Mezquita, we immersed ourselves in the narrow streets of the Judería, the old Jewish quarter of Córdoba, and ...
Spain, November 8, 2017:  The Road to Granada

Spain, November 8, 2017: The Road to Granada

The trip from Córdoba to Granada was generally uneventful, but had its noteworthy moments nonetheless. En route to Granada we ...
Granada, November 9, 2017:  The Palaces of the Alhambra

Granada, November 9, 2017: The Palaces of the Alhambra

When I was nine years old, my mother gave me a history book with a picture of the Alhambra on ...
Granada, November 9, 2017 — The Alhambra, from the Gardens to the Generalife

Granada, November 9, 2017 — The Alhambra, from the Gardens to the Generalife

After viewing the Patio de Lindaraja from above, we descended into it and strolled through its garden on the ground ...
Granada, November 9, 2017:  The City Center and the Albaicín

Granada, November 9, 2017: The City Center and the Albaicín

When we finished our tour of the Alhambra in the early afternoon of November 9, we were given the choice ...
Granada after Dark, November 9, 2017

Granada after Dark, November 9, 2017

After recovering from the exhausting trek through the Alhambra and across the Albaicín during the day, we ventured out in ...
Gibraltar - November 10, 2017

Gibraltar – November 10, 2017

I expected Gibraltar to be somewhat of an anticlimax after the Arabian Nights fantasy of Granada. I knew little about ...
Tangier, Morning of November 11, 2017

Tangier, Morning of November 11, 2017

We had only one morning to spend in Tangier, and we had to make the most of it. Fortunately our ...
Lunch in the Blue City:  Chefchaouen, November 11, 2017

Lunch in the Blue City: Chefchaouen, November 11, 2017

On the afternoon of November 11, 2017, Veterans' Day in the United States (a holiday which I favor, being a ...
Fes, November 12, 2017:  Two Palaces, a Fortress and a Pottery Workshop

Fes, November 12, 2017: Two Palaces, a Fortress and a Pottery Workshop

Fes is a very old city, dating from the eighth century CE, and a large one, with a population of ...
Fes, November 12, 2017:  The Medina

Fes, November 12, 2017: The Medina

The Medina, or Old City, of Fes is often considered as encompassing the two old quarters of Fes el-Jdid, where ...
Dinner and a Show in Fes, November 12, 2017

Dinner and a Show in Fes, November 12, 2017

The climax of our visit to Fes was a gala dinner and show in an impossibly elegant restaurant, the name ...
A Day in the Capital of Morocco - November 13, 2017

A Day in the Capital of Morocco – November 13, 2017

Rabat is the political capital of Morocco, and has been effectively so since 1912, when the French established their protectorate ...
Casablanca - November 14, 2017

Casablanca – November 14, 2017

Immediately after our arrival at the Hotel Golden Tulip Farah in Casablanca on the evening of November 13, I fell ...
Streets of Marrakesh, November 15-16, 2017

Streets of Marrakesh, November 15-16, 2017

By the time our bus delivered us to our hotel in Marrakesh, on the evening of November 14, 2017, it ...
Marrakesh, 11/15/2017:  The Palais Bahia

Marrakesh, 11/15/2017: The Palais Bahia

Setting forth to view the wonders of Marrakesh on the morning of November 15, 2017, our Go-Ahead tour group arrived ...
Marrakesh, November 15, 2017:  The Kasbah

Marrakesh, November 15, 2017: The Kasbah

When we left the Palais Bahia, we found ourselves in the Marrakesh Kasbah, a citadel and palace district on the ...
Marrakesh, November 15, 2017:  The Perils of the Jemaa el-Fnaa

Marrakesh, November 15, 2017: The Perils of the Jemaa el-Fnaa

Without a doubt, the Jemaa el-Fnaa provided for me the most bizarre and indelible experience of the entire trip. It ...
Marrakesh, November 15, 2017:  A Camel Ride at Dusk

Marrakesh, November 15, 2017: A Camel Ride at Dusk

After resting up from the terrifying ordeal in the Jemaa el-Fnaa earlier in the day, we boarded the bus for ...
Marrakesh, November 16, 2017:  Jardin Majorelle

Marrakesh, November 16, 2017: Jardin Majorelle

We had a full morning to spend in Marrakesh before flying out to Madrid in the afternoon, and to spend ...